Interview - Sebastian Hoofs
The shirt collar of the great Gatsby and the charm of the 20s
Thanks to films like "The Great Gatsby" and series like "Babylon Berlin", the so-called golden twenties have been absolutely trendy again for a few years now. After hard years of war, the upper class celebrated decadence and exuberant parties. When it comes to fashion, one quickly thinks of the glittering flapper dresses of the ladies. And with the men? Tailor Sebastian Hoofs dedicates his workshop to detachable shirt collars like the Patricide or the Spearpointcollar. He reveals more about this in the interview.
The 20s are very much in vogue. What do you think is the charm of this epoch?
I think that after decades of comfortable and rather functional clothing, the call for elegance and beauty is getting louder again. Fashion is simply a wave movement and we are fascinated by the nostalgic view of a time that is still perceptible today, but which has long since passed. The 20s were years of new beginnings and a little transfigured by film and television. At first we think of glittering parties and dancing nights of high society and always perfectly dressed business people as well as independent elegant ladies. Current series such as "Babylon Berlin" or "Peaky Blinders" put these years in a historically less correct, but very beautiful light.
What is the difference between shirt collars today and those of the 20s?
The main difference is that the shirt collars of that time were buttonable. That is, they had three buttonholes, which were connected to other buttonholes on the actual shirt by special collar buttons. This made the shirt changeable on the one hand, and on the other hand it made it easier to care for. The collar could be changed, washed or completely removed for sleeping. It should not be forgotten that at that time a shirt was considered underwear. Of course, the design of the collar changed from time to time in thigh shape and length.
What awaits the participants in your workshop?
In my workshop I sew with the participants a complete collar in the style of the 20s. In the workshop I will show how to professionally sew a shirt collar. This means that the knowledge can also be easily transferred to modern shirts and blouses.
Thanks a lot for the interview!